France/ Andorra/Spain

From: Marc Cooper

Our trip started on the early evening sailing from Plymouth to Roscoff, we left Plymouth in drizzly rain and sailed overnight to France arriving about 0800 and again the weather although dry was overcast. We had planned our route using the GPS software and set it for the shortest route, we are not throttle jockeys and as the wives tell us we have a valuable cargo on the back. We soon found that shortest route is not always the best as we were being sent through every village in the area.

After resetting to the fastest route we set of on our 550 mile leg to Bourg-en-Bresse and an overnight stop in the Formula 1 hotel

As we progressed down through France the weather warmed and the clouds cleared away, we followed the West coast south and then cut across East toward Bourg-en-Bresse, our plan was to go over the Millau viaduct after seeing it being built on TV (another box to tick).

We arrived at the Formula 1 hotel in the early evening, and although basic it was clean and very good value, we fuelled the bikes ready for the next day as that was Sunday and had read that fuel may be hard to find then. We had a meal just down the road in a restaurant and were surprised how good a cheap it was and enjoyed the friendly atmosphere.

Up the next morning (not to early) after breakfast we set off again heading for Perpignan via the Millau viaduct, the roads were good and reminded us of Cornwall, you did not notice the gradual climb as we got the Central Masiff region and very soon in the distance we spotted the top of towers of the bridge. The bridge looked awesome and was well worth the detour, stopping at the visitor centre before crossing we climbed the hill and went to the viewing area (hot climb in bike gear but worth it). 

Off again and Mandy (the wife) got to work with the camcorder, the bridge seemed to go on for ages although the plastic wind panels obscure the scenery below, the road soon began to wind itself slowly down towards the South of France on what I can only describe as the best dual carriageway I have ever been on, carved out of the hill side and full of sweeping bends.

The fuel was very easy to get on Sunday as most of the time we were on main routes, we had planned to get at least 200 miles to a tank and did this with ease (the Sunday fuel thing applies more to rural areas so plan your route accordingly).

We arrived again at the caravan site in Perpignan early evening were we had planned a 4 day stop to let the ladies chill by the pool. We stayed with Siblu at the La Sirene site, this is a big site and the facilities were excellent. We highly recommend the evening entertainment with the quality of the Grease show being more West End. The site has restaurants, bars, a pub and a brilliant pool area. We even found a tiled out parking bay were you could wash your bike /car for free. There was a lot to do in the area and you are only about an hour from Barcelona. The on site shops were expensive but only 5 mins outside the site there is a huge hyper market also selling fuel. On one day we travelled out to Arles-sur-Tech to visit the Gorges de la fou which is basically a suspended walkway through a gorge, stunning, very hot and a lot of walking upstairs so change into shorts, trainers and t shirt when you get there.

We set off again after what felt like an all too brief stay at Perpignan heading for The Picos Mountains in Northern Spain via Andorra, we had 3 days to do this so we decided to wing it for accommodation and stop when we felt like it.

We thought we had been on some good roads uptill now and then we started the climb to Andorra (wow),this has got be the best bike road yet loads of bends awesome views, and a steady climb to the top. When you get to the edge of Andorra don’t be tempted to use the tunnel as you will miss trip to the top of the mountain and the drop down to Andorra la vil. We all did say after the awesome roads to get there the capital was very disappointing and after fuel and a feed we pressed on eventually stopping at the Esterri Park hotel in Esterri d'aneu just as an evening thunder storm broke.

Tim and I were in the car park unpacking the bikes when a chef appeared with an umbrella and waved us to the rear of the hotel, we moved to there to find a porch area at the back of the restaurant to which he invited to park the bikes in the dry. Nothing was too much trouble for this hotel and although a bit off route we were glad we found it.

Next morning we woke to clear skies and that nice fresh smell after it rains, we set off out of the village to climb out over the hill only to come to some road works. We thought this would only be a few 10 yards but soon found that the whole of the winding pass had been dug up, at best we were riding on the rolled gravel sub base and in amongst heavy moving plant, this was scary and we don’t know how we never dropped the loaded bikes but we made it to the top and firm roads and FOG!. (Ewan and Charlie would have been proud of us, we even got a clap from some road workers as the Wing and the Pan emerged over the top of the off road section).

I zoomed the sat nav in to see the bends that were coming up as you could not see you hand in front of your face, after a slow trip down we made into the valley and clear visibility at Vielha. At this point we were stopped with all the rest of the traffic at a tunnel entrance while a petrol tanker came through, we were amazed when we went through at how long this tunnel was (about 8 km) and near the end you could feel the heat wafting through from the outside, we exited the tunnel into a bright hot day and more rolling roads, water falls and lakes.

We carried on through Barbastro, Huesca and past all the reservoirs at Yesa, around Pamplona and eventually stopping in a motel just South of Bilbao for the night. We could not believe how the landscapes changed all the way up through and at one point you thought you were in Arizona.

 
Next morning after breakfast we were off again heading for the Picos mountains and a hotel we had booked in Carena de cabrelles,this was the heaviest traffic that we had encountered all trip but it was a Friday and we were around Bilbao and Santander both busy ports. When we got clear of Santander the roads quietened down and yet again the landscape started to change. We arrived at the hotel in Arenas de Cabrales and went to our rooms to get changed, on opening the window we were met with the most breath taking view I have ever seen.

Our hotel was the Torrecerredo and was aimed at walkers and cyclist but welcome motorcycles in small groups, the atmosphere was very laid back with a bar that was open all day, the food was very traditional, plenty of it and good, The village was only 2 mins down the drive and had loads of bars and restaurants. We had arrived on the weekend of the Fiesta so there were lots of people and things to see and do and to top it all the next day Spain won the Euro football final so it was a party on each night with lots of fireworks.

We did a ride to the Fontal Due cable car, to get there you ride through a twisty gorge road alongside a Salmon filled river for about an hour. Although I bottled out of the cable car Mandy, Tina and Tim went videoing the whole thing, views to die for as you go through the clouds to the top.

O n the way back to the hotel we stopped at one of the villages for a bite eat and explore the market with all its colours and smells. After another night at the hotel it was the day we did not want to come, the day to get the ferry back home. The hotel let us stay very late so that we did not have to hang around the ferry port at Santander and cook in the car park. We took a very slow ride back to Santander and enjoyed the brilliant roads in the Picos, we will return to this region and hotel again as it was so relaxed. The owner did say to pick your dates with care as it is very green there for a reason, June to August being the safest.

 
After an overnight trip back to Plymouth in the care of Brittany ferries it was back to the rain and the grind of work till the next trip.

Things we learnt

Although the Goldwing and Pan European keep the wind and rain off you they also stop the airflow to keep you cool so carry plenty of fluids for long trips, we are thinking of some camel packs.

Fuel on a Sunday was not the major problem you think it will be, but plan your trip to suit your expected fuel consumption.

 We used Google earth a lot to see the roads we were to travel on, this gave us a rough idea but found that Google was not always up to date.

Loads of speed cameras on the Auto routes so beware, but if like us you want to enjoy the sights anyway throttle back and relax.

I f you go to the Picos be aware there are lots of walkers and cyclist on the roads so be careful on the bends.

The truck rest areas have plenty of toilets and showers but take a loo roll in the top box and be prepared to squat on a pit if your took short.

Twisty roads have recommended speed signs, the lower the speed the sharper the bend 30km being sharp.

Be prepared for the locals to over take and cut you up on some of the roads, they know them better than you so expect the unexpected.

We used two way radios this trip for the first time and they worked well, when some one wanted to stop they just called up and the girls could yap their way around France.

Don’t be in to much of a rush to book accommodation, there are loads of places to stay and most are good value it also adds to the fun of not knowing were you are going to stay that night. Do recommend the Formula one hotel as very good value, but you may do best to book as they soon fill up. When you plan your route find one online and book.

For the longer stops try the caravan sites, these are really good and save carrying camping equipment.

Enjoy your trip

Marc and Mandy Cooper - Honda GL1800 Goldwing
Tim and Tina Milden - Honda STX 1300 Pan European

Total miles approx 1750 over 10 days, Sat nav Garmin Streetpilot 3, 3 hours of video tape to edit!!!!!!